Zero-Clearance Inserts Zero-Clearance Inserts Powermatic #JT-164 Leecraft Zero-Clearance Table Saw Insert 12-1/2" x 3-9/16"
Find the Leecraft Zero-Clearance Insert for your Powermatic Table Saw
Model DL-1U 13-3/8"L x 3-3/4"W x 1/2"T - Fits Powermatic 63
Model JT-164 12-1/2"L x 3-9/16"W - Fits Powermatic models 64 and 64A (left-tilt)
Model JT-5 15-5/16"L x 4-1/4"W - Fits Powermatic PM1000 with riving knife slot
Model JT-6 15-5/16"L x 4-1/4"W - Fits Powermatic PM1000 WITHOUT riving knife slot for dado or angle cuts
Model PM-1 14-7/16"L x 4"W - Fits Powermatic 66 (older models may need some modifications)
Model PM-2 20-5/8"L x 4"W - Fits Powermatic 72A
Model PM-3 17-5/8"L x 4"W - Fits Powermatic 72 rounded end
Model PM-4 26-1/8"L x 4"W - Fits Powermatic 74A
Model PM-5 17-7/8"L x 4"W - Fits Powermatic models 68 and 72 rectangular end
Model PM-6 17-7/8"L x 4-1/4"W - Fits Powermatic PM2000 with riving knife slot
Model PM-7 17-7/8"L x 4-1/4"W - Fits Powermatic PM2000 WITHOUT riving knife slot
#JT-164 Leecraft Zero-Clearance Table Saw Insert fits JET: JTS-10, JCS-10, JWTS-10, JTAS-10, JWCS-10; POWERMATIC: 64 & 64A (left-tilt); SUNHILL: most 10" saws; BRIDGEWOOD: TSC-10C & TSC-10CL; KING KC 10GC; SHOP FOX: W1703, W1714, W1725, W1726; GRIZZLY: G0444, G0444Z, G0575, G0576
Use MicroJig MJ Splitter Kits for added table saw safety. Available in THICK or THIN kerf they are easily installed and simple to align. Not for use with Leecraft inserts that already have the riving knife slot cut in. Intended for inserts WITHOUT the riving knife slot.
INSTALLING AND FITTING YOUR INSERT
(Note: This insert does not require the front hold-down screw utilized on your original factory insert.).
- Lower the blade completely.
- Place insert in table with finger hole towards operator and starter pocket located over blade.
- Run leveling screws down until insert is stable and flush with table top. (Use a 3/32" hex Allen wrench).
- Back out front end-adjustment screw and side adjustment screw to achieve a fit that is snug, yet removable.
- If the insert will not go down flush with table top because it is resting on top of blade, then raise up using leveling screws until insert is sitting about 1/16" above table top. This should provide adequate clearance for blade.
- SPLITTER: If your saw has a splitter, you will need to cut a slot at the rear of the insert to accommodate it. Trace the outline of the slot from your original metal insert, and cut with bandsaw or hacksaw. Leave the bridge between the splitter slot and the blade slot as thick as possible.
CUTTING THE BLADE SLOT (KERF)
- Check that insert is fitted properly, and that blade is clear. Using a stick, reach under the table and rotate the blade manually to check for blade clearance.
- Fully cover the insert with a board, and clamp at each end to the table saw top.
- Re-connect power to saw. Switch on, slowly and cautiously raise blade up, to cut its way through the insert. KEEP HANDS OFF OF TABLE TOP, STAY CLEAR AND WEAR GOGGLES. Raise blade to maximum height at this time.
- Lower blade, turn off saw, and remove board. Your insert is now ready for use!
IMPORTANT TIPS FOR USE
- Only recommended for use with carbide tipped cutters.
- DADO BLADE - Use same procedures outlined above, but use additional caution due to excessive material being machined from insert during the slotting procedure.
- Under certain conditions, an undesirable scraping noise may be generated by your saw blade. Planer type blades and/or excessive arbor run-out, and/or blade distortion, may be causing intermittent contact with the insert slot. To remedy this, remove the insert and slightly widen the slot using a file or sanding paddle.
- Ideally, a separate insert should be used with each blade, dado stack, or angle set-up. This will insure a true "zero-clearance" effect and give you maximum benefit from your inserts.